Day 19: Patricks Point State Park - Ferndale, 90km

Strangely, half way through the night I had to peal off both my pairs of socks, two jumpers and unzip my sleeping bag. When we got up I walked around in shorts and a vest. By 10am it was touching 95F. 60 miles later we had cycled through the first day of a heat wave.

The day started with another off road experience. Past Trinidad we continued onto Trinidad Scenic Road even though it clearly stated the road was closed. For 3 or 4 miles I tried desperately to take in the views whilst skidding on rubble. At one point the road looked like the edge of the world. As we cycled to the edge like intrepid explorers, we met a big concrete barrier and a gap just big enough to force the bike and load through! I haven't been so glad to rejoin 101.

Our route took us through the back streets of McKinleyville where we stopped for iced coffee. With great intelligence I left my bike in the sun - 20 minutes later you could have fried an egg on my saddle. As I doused saddle in water you could see steam raise off it...., OK maybe not but i could have imagined it.

Between McKinleyville and Arcata we followed a bike path through farmland. There is nothing like the smell of cow shit in 100 degree heat. Arcata (or what we saw of it) seemed quite cool, if only because we must have seen 50 cyclists and numerous bike lanes.

Snaking through yet more suburbia we skirted around Eureka, ending with a short climb around the golf course which woke us up in comparison to the relatively flat route so far. Back on hwy 101 the heat was stifling - so much so that it was more desirable to keep pedalling and enjoy the air flow over us.

Our journey took us from one side of 101 to the other - why cycle 2 miles when you can cycle 10 - until a steep climb up to Loleta and a nice descent to Fernbridge. Finally we turned onto 211 and dragged our sorry selves into Ferndale.

All at once we spotted beer, pizza and accommodation (Francis Creek Inn). Plonking ourselves down in the shade outside Ferndale Pizza Co, the table next to us (Cathy and Tim) started a conversation about mad cyclists. It turned out they lived in a ranch 5 miles from Ferndale, which they invited us to visit. 10 extra miles in this heat was not a plan however than we fancied completing. I had a funny moment when farming chat ensued - Tim mentioned cycling past a farmer who was piling this years silage on top of last years. They all laughed hysterically, as did I if only because I didn't have a clue of the relevance.