Day 10: Oswald West State Park - Cape Lookout State Park, 84km

After an horrendous nights sleep for me and a good one for Tim, we got up at 8am for great caverns of tea and oats. It didn't feel like it was taking us ages to pack up but as the clock turned 10 o'clock we were only just hauling our bikes out of the wood.

As ever we started our day with a 2.5 mile climb up to 800ft this time. It is nice to think this would wake us up, but as our bodies are trying to digest their breakfast it is the last thing they want. With every climb comes justified rewards - our was a coffee and cinnamon bun on the beach 10 miles down the road in Manzanita - a cute yet exclusive looking village with the Stepford Wives out for a stroll with their lattes.

Through Nehalem we were treated to yet more breathtaking vistas. As we circled Nehalem Bay we encountered the best tail wind, propelling us through Wheeler, Brighton, Nedonna Beach, Manhattan beach, Roackaway Beach, Twin Rocks, Watesco and Barview. At Garibaldi we decided it was time for lunch, as we pulled into a road side cafe. The mad thing about America, is so many places look almost unappealing from outside and yet inside they are a veritable eatery.

Back on the road we passed through bay City and into Tillamook where we stopped for the essential Tillamook Cheese factory photo. Tim then took 40 minutes buying chicken and pasta in Safeway! It turns out the poor boy was dumbfounded by the store and its isles dedicated to one food group - if there is one for crisps, cakes and sweets (a food group that is).

Meanwhile sat by the bikes I began to realise the pedigree of Tillamook. A crazy lady just kept standing next to me then every so often muttered a few incomprehensible words. After Tim had been in the store for half and hour and I was beginning to wonder when I should start worrying a group of cyclists joined me, at the end of their trip up North to Tillamook. One guy grumpily sat in the shade, complaining about the wind then moaned that he was cold in the shade. When we told them we were taking the 'Three Capes Scenic Route' to Cape lookout they told us not to bother - crap roads, winds and views.

We promptly ignore their ranting and got on with the route. Circling Tillamook bay we had a head wind, yet undeterred we turned onto Cape Meares and enjoyed a 2.5 mile climb on a fairly crappy road! At the top we walked into a wood to see a very big spruce (!) - the largest on Oregon I'm told, then freewheeled down the other side. more undulations brought us into Netarts - a beautiful village out of nowhere which looked out over a tiny peninsula.

Up and down the road took us, until finally we came into Cape Lookout State Park. We cycled round the ground at least three times in pursuit of the perfect site (the criteria of which we weren't too certain of). On our final circuit, Tim dropped his bike telling me he was off to phone Guy and Clare for some help and knowledge to make the decision ;-)

Spot chosen, we patted ourselves on the back for pitching the tent and producing edible fair yet again. The day was crowned by a final cup of tea watching the sun go down on the beach...